NOTES FROM MOSCOW –

NOVODEVICHY CEMETERY & NAZIM HIKMET’S TOMBSTONE

By Ilayda Nijhar from Moscow

The Novodevichy Cemetery is a well-known spot to many here in Moscow. It is situated on the outskirts of the Novodevichy Convent which is recognised as one of Russia’s most beautiful and majestic religious institutions. Once entering the cemetery grounds, you find yourself engulfed in years of history with over 27,000 graves. The Novodevichy Cemetery is the burial site for many famous Russian figures which include composers, musicians, actors, authors, poets and both military and political leaders. Among the cultural figures are Gogol, Bulgakov, Chekov, Shostakovich, Prokofiev and Mayakovsky to name but a few. Leading political dignitaries include Boris Yeltsin and Nikita Khrushchev. It is interesting to note the shift in political burials from the Kremlin to the Cemetery.

During the Soviet era the final resting place for all major figures was within the Kremlin, excluding Khrushchev. It was only after the fall of the USSR that political figures began to be buried in the Novodevichy Cemetery. The Cemetery is a very popular attraction for both locals and tourists. The more notable graves have a more flamboyant design as seen with Khrushchev’s which is shaped in the form of white and black blocks. This particular grave was created by Neizvestny, a prominent Russian-American sculptor, who attempted to portray both the good and bad sides of Khrushchev through intertwined blocks. Likewise, the grave of Yeltsin is in the shape of a large Russian flag. When in the presence of such historic figures, albeit deceased, it is impossible not to feel a sense of awe. From passing Chekov to Shostakovich to Gogol the cemetery has a somewhat somber atmosphere. Yet not all who visit the cemetery appreciate the graves in the same manner. One gravestone in particular, that of Stalin’s second wife Nadezdha Stalin-Alliluyeva, has had to have protective measures taken such as unbreakable glass taken in order to prevent destruction from viewers thus casting light on modern day attitudes.

The Novodevichy Cemetery is also the final resting place of international renowned Turkish poet and author Nazim Hikmet Ran. Hikmet, who famously wrote,“To live! Like a tree alone and free, Like a forest in brotherhood, This yearning is ours!” hailed as one of Turkey’s most influential and celebrated literature figures, died in Moscow in 1963. Hikmet is amongst some of the most internationally quoted poets. He was influenced a great deal by Communist thinking especially by the likes of Mayakovsky and Lenin. It was because of his participation in the Leftist movement that Hikmet was constantly persecuted by Turkey and the reason why he unwillingly spent a great deal of time away from his homeland. His death was a result of a sudden heart attack while in his summer house in Moscow and thus unexpected. As such, he was taken to be buried in the Novodevichy Cemetery with other fellow literature dignitaries. Despite an apt tombstone in Moscow, his desire to one day be buried in a small village in Anatolia under a tree was never fulfilled. Yet the legacy of Nazim Hikmet continues. Even today, his gravestone is a place visited by people of all backgrounds and nationalities. You can even find small excerpts of his poems written by some of his admirers as well as notes of gratitude. Standing in front of Nazim Hikmet’s tombstone undoubtedly leaves you in pure admiration. It was a unique experience and one which I will cherish. The Novodevichy Cemetery is a fascinating place to visit which is full of history and even a place where one can feel vibrations & influences of the heroes of the past.

İLAYDA NİJHAR-  MOSCOW